Like the corresponding bottling from the Eckberg, now labeled (at least, on the “back”) with the full name of its vineyard of origin, Boxler’s 2006 Riesling Sommerberg Dudenstein seems to demonstrate the disadvantages of this (by granular, granitic Sommerberg standards) relatively deeply-soiled, water-retentive site that is home to the estate’s oldest Riesling vines. Apricot- and almond cream tinged with the bitterness of fruit pit and citrus rind inform an opulent, silken-textured palate, reinforced by a hint of sweetness (8 grams of sugar, but I would have guessed half again as many). I would enjoy this over the next couple of years for its richness and be surprised if it proved worth holding longer-term.Robert Parker 89
